Would imagine the pistons and rods wouldn't take 22psi either?

diamond internals bro

god knows why I have forged pistons aye

I was always told around 17-18psi was the limit on the factory gasket.
I know of engines making 300kw on the standard internals/ Head gasket for long periods of time, but at that 17-18psi level.

Lol Nick.
The reason you have forged internals was that I had to rebuild the motor so figured I might as well chuck a decent set of pistons in seeing as at the time I couldn't find new factory ones for much less than what I paid for the ACL's.

Might see what it can put out at 18 psi, and leave the step to 22 psi a bit later on down the road then.
If im pulling the head off, I want a few more things down while its off.

You can pick up a set of M&H forged rods for under $600, so if you were to do stuff to the bottom end, these would be the way to go.
I'm sure there are better rods out there, but no matter what, they'll still be 1,000,000 times better than the stock ones.
Rot62 uses them in his +400wkw GTR and is more than happy with them as far as I know.

Undo, y u no buy forged rods too

There was nothing easily available 6 years ago, and I didn't know that you could use 26 ones.
The 26 ones you have will be more than enough

Pandaemonaeon wrote: There was nothing easily available 6 years ago, and I didn't know that you could use 26 ones. The 26 ones you have will be more than enough

I hope so.

18psi sounds less dangerous. That was always about the limit when mine was working properly... though that might have been because the injectors and fuel pump are standard.

Unless someone has a brilliant idea, I'm ****ing stumped how to remove the water line that goes between the block and the firewall.

I've got 1 water line off (that Pandaemonaeon pointed out) oil feed, and oil return.
I'm seriously considering just running a braided hose, hose clamped to the existing steel line at this stage, as I have no ****ing idea where it goes to.

Still trying to source an off cut of steam pipe to modifiy that kit to fit the bigger turbo

That one between the block and firewall eventually feeds into a rubber hose almost exactly in-line with the centre of the engine which disappers under the plenum, I just plugged in my line where the factory sleel and rubber lines merge with a double sided joiner. It's in a prick of a spot but you can get at it. Oh there will be a clamp with a IIRC 10mm bolt holding it to the engine. Pull that ****er out and life will get much easier.

Water line to the block under the turbo is a prick because you are limited for room and what direction you can point the fitting. I have that line running up along the back of the engine to keep it away from the runners and the exhaust (I am running trans cooler hose for my water lines, havn't upgraded those to braided yet).

Oil return: I made the return and the flange from steel as my retarded Xforce manifold has the runners for the wastegate sitting like 5-10mm from the oil return path. Rubber was constantly perishing and cracking like a mofo.

Since when did you get small asain hands?
Do you still have your heater hoses there?
I removed that little bracket thing which helped a touch, in the way that my hand could almost get stuck trying to follow where the line goes.

I haven't even dumbied up the manifold yet as I cant get the old exhaust off with a, a grinder, or b, axle stands anda trolley jack.
This is super helpful when trying to figure out what fittings I need.

MarksoN wrote: Since when did you get small asain hands? Do you still have your heater hoses there? I removed that little bracket thing which helped a touch, in the way that my hand could almost get stuck trying to follow where the line goes. I haven't even dumbied up the manifold yet as I cant get the old exhaust off with a, a grinder, or b, axle stands anda trolley jack. This is super helpful when trying to figure out what fittings I need.

I'm a freaking surgeon with long nose pliers I suggest you get some if you don't already have any. I'm pretty sure you can actually see the line when you position yourself in the right spot.

I can't exactly remember how I got my factory manifold off, but it did involve lots of leaverage and wiggling it around. Oh and swearing, lots and lots of swearing. I remember you do have to pull it off evenly though, you don't want to **** any stud threads in the head, so I would advise lots of caution with a trolley jack.

Already got my old manifold off
Just can't dumbie the new one up cause the wastegate plumbing is in the way