R33's are the same (re: front camber)

My one is sitting on about 2.2 or 2.4 degrees at the moment. (stock arms)

Conveniantly on my cert plate, it says "Adjustable arms front and rear" so *cough* some aftermarket ones could sneaky their way in there eventually.

yea the only reason i didnt include the R33 in my list was ive not personally worked the front end of one before but i assumed they would be similar if not the same

Esprit wrote: Yup, essentially the Skyline runs a dual wishbone-style setup whereas the Silvias run with a more standard McPherson Strut. Is there no way to shim the uprights for camber on the Skylines? I'd have thought they were a little more user-friendly in their adjustment, although I'm assuming most people get around this by just buying an adjustable top-arm and being done with it

most people dont realise you can actually replace the top arms in skylines and those that know you can do it and adjust them properly, however the majority of skylines you see with camber are based on makita one way adjustables and are usually driven by jabroni's

however midori and various other suspension tuning organisations makes some very very nice aftermarket ones, and for those that dont know the arms exist or cant afford them theres a fairly good range of adjustable bushes for the upper arms out there too that are reasonably priced

What's the main difference between arms and bushes for camber correction? I need a little more adjustment in the rear, fronts are fine on the stock hardware though.

They're about $600 a set yeah? (ballpark figure for quality front arms).

I haven't really looked them up. I've only gone to SAS and priced up the bushes, about $220 for a set to fit to the rear. I'm only planning on adjusting it once, I'm not exactly a racer ... I figure bushes will eventually wear, perhaps that's the difference?

woops, that question was for stalker Re the front camber arms.

Rear camber arms for your car start at around $150 a set.

Mutton wrote: What's the main difference between arms and bushes for camber correction? I need a little more adjustment in the rear, fronts are fine on the stock hardware though.

bushes allow for minimal movement, on the rears theyre fine though because the stock bolt is eccentric, so you can adjust with the stock bolt AND with the bush, fronts are different because theyre non adjustable from factory, basically arms give much more adjustment

i got a set of these for my 34.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...n-196444204.htm

do the job well and weren't expensive. Dropped rear camber from 3 to about .8

TIP: don't get the chrome ones though.

rear camber arms are cheap so i recommend using them, basically allowing maximum adjustment in one place rather than fudging around with bush/bolt combo, front arms start at about 450 and go thru to about 900 depending on brand exchange rate etc, i know of one company in nz selling proper decent aftermarket ones rather than just stock ones cut with sliding adjustment

Lulz Tadz ^_^ my bad

Sweet, I'll go with the bushes then. Cheers dude.

Anyone know a place where i can get a sc14(toyota estima supercharger) rather cheap apart from trademe? Our local wrecker doesnt have any :\

I noticed on the trip out to Whangamata the Z had a tiny bit more understeer than I liked, how much difference will worn bushes make to a car's handling? The car is almost 20 years old now, and some of them are probably original. (I was thinking about replacing all the bushes in the car with noathelene)

The fact that one of the front wheels has a tiny bit of play due to a worn suspension component probably doesnt help either

St4lk3r wrote: the reason for this is because the upper of the hub is held to the chassis by way of a j-arm and top arm rather than the other style (s13 etc) that has the shock bolted to the hub therefore can be adjusted from the top hat of the shock

Aha! So that's why I can't find any. My memory had failed me

Which is sad, as I installed the shocks/springs myself (albeit 4 years ago). I'm glad someone mentioned it, otherwise I would have been browsing the internet forever without bothering to stick my head under my car lol

baffa wrote: I noticed on the trip out to Whangamata the Z had a tiny bit more understeer than I liked, how much difference will worn bushes make to a car's handling? The car is almost 20 years old now, and some of them are probably original. (I was thinking about replacing all the bushes in the car with noathelene) The fact that one of the front wheels has a tiny bit of play due to a worn suspension component probably doesnt help either

Replacing the bushes can make almost a night-and-day difference. Bushes go squidgy over time, especially with heavy cars and/or hard use. This tends to cause positive-camber deflection under side loading (on the outside, loaded wheel) which decreases contact patch area and reduces grip.

In many cases, there are plenty of cars out there (even modified ones) where if you just bought all brand spanking new suspension components (shocks, springs, balljoints, bearings, bushes and rod-ends) you'd scarcely believe the improvements from just giving it a freshen.

on the subject of swaybars - 23mm rear and 30mm front

^


23mm? pffhhh...my last work vehicle had a 78mm one on the front and a 50mm one for the back.


that it was a 350hp Isuzu 6x4 truck, with a GVM of 45 tonnes is beside the point...

Gaaahhhh, two supercharged AW11s on trademe and both are well overpriced with high kms

sometimes I wish the market for AW11 SCs didn't solely consist of middle-aged enthusiasts with money to burn.

where the hell do you store & work on all these cars ??

Btw i just wanted to know what is up with the hate for hondas? I drive a 1995 accord, quite quick especially when vtec kicks in 5000rpm..

oh shit...

Esprit wrote: Replacing the bushes can make almost a night-and-day difference. Bushes go squidgy over time, especially with heavy cars and/or hard use. This tends to cause positive-camber deflection under side loading (on the outside, loaded wheel) which decreases contact patch area and reduces grip. In many cases, there are plenty of cars out there (even modified ones) where if you just bought all brand spanking new suspension components (shocks, springs, balljoints, bearings, bushes and rod-ends) you'd scarcely believe the improvements from just giving it a freshen.

I agree. Replacing worn top-arms on my Skyline made a massive difference, got rid of alot of understeer, just sharpened up the whole nose of the car.

Quote: Btw i just wanted to know what is up with the hate for hondas? I drive a 1995 accord, quite quick especially when vtec kicks in 5000rpm..

Tread very carefully my good man, tread very carefully indeed

hmm, my SA22C's been vinned as a "RX-7"... here's hoping I can get that amended to "Savanna RX-7" before I go down and register it

you can, you fill in a magical little form at an ltsa wof place and a dude goes yep that looks like what it is and ticks it off, queue having new info on rego tag, i may have had to remove "nissan twin cam turbo 180sx" from mine

Esprit wrote: Replacing the bushes can make almost a night-and-day difference. Bushes go squidgy over time, especially with heavy cars and/or hard use. This tends to cause positive-camber deflection under side loading (on the outside, loaded wheel) which decreases contact patch area and reduces grip. In many cases, there are plenty of cars out there (even modified ones) where if you just bought all brand spanking new suspension components (shocks, springs, balljoints, bearings, bushes and rod-ends) you'd scarcely believe the improvements from just giving it a freshen.

Sweet, everyone I've talked to has agreed, so I'm ordering a full set. The Z is probably gonna stay parked up until I can afford to do the belts, bushes, tyres, and steering arm, and If im not bankrupt by then, I'm on for trackday ^_^