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  1. Post
    #1
    but it sorta got out of hand...


    I bought this 1987 LJ71 Landcruiser SX5 almost 1.5 years ago for $2000. It was very tidy, one NZ owner since import in 1997. Had high kms, and was on it's 3rd swap motor.

    Any mechanic will tell you not to touch a toyota 2L-T 2.4 diesel turbo with a 10-foot barge pole. However, as a mechanic, i figured i'd take the risk. On the drive back to Taupo from Tokoroa, i blew the inlet pipe between the turbo and engine clean off. it was a sign of things to come.

    Within a month it had cracked a head, so i found a $500 non turbo 2L head at another workshop and modified it to fit. the day after that i destroyed the wastegate actuator. replaced that. then popped the turbo. by the end of the week the head had cracked again. Perhaps i should have been thrashing it. all this happened nanna-driving to and from work.

    I parked it up and ripped the engine out, and looked at my options:

    Full rebuild on the 2L-T: $7500

    2nd hand 2L-T or 2L-TE: $8000

    V6 Commodore: $13000, if i could've found a donor car for $1500. considering i was in taupo, and didnt have a tow-wagon at the time, this wasnt an option.

    1KZ-TE 3.0l Toyota Diesel: $11000. in hindsight, i shoulda gone for this

    1-UZ 4.0l V8: $11000.


    I Picked V8.


    As far as four-wheel drives go, this truck is one of the best vehicles to start with, suspension wise. it has very long-travel coil sprung solid axles. while there are a few schools of though on this, in my experience, it's the way to go. Having strong diffs and axles as standard should be good for future.


    So far, ive done:


    Strip engine down. replace water pump, cambelt etc. replace big-end bearing cap bolts. Replace entire wiring loom, strip off what isnt needed.

    Fit adapter plate to my 5-speed prado g/box. modify auto 1-UZ bellhousing to suit clutch. Make new pivot for clutch and adjust by guessing (spot on )

    Fit engine to g/box, with custom flywheel and heavy duty clutch.

    Strip all old diesel engine wiring from engine bay, including 3 seperate alarm system. Remove rear heater and old exhaust. Move firewall back 2cm with hammer

    Fit 1-UZ and gbox with custom engine mounts. i'll probably have to redo the mounts somewhere along the way, as they're not all that strong. Mettler's idea looks good, but i'd probably do it with water pipe and shackle bushes...

    Connect new wiring loom to vehicle, and wire up Link computer and igniter. fit new fusebox and relays. Whole engine only needs 14 feed wires from computer to run.

    Get custom exhaust manifolds made up: 2-1/4 inch collector, very short headers 3/4inch dia, 40mm long. Exiting into wheelarches, same as old exhaust system. Will be 2-1/4 on each side of truck, then joining into one 2.5inch pipe and over diff. probably 2 coby's and one resonator.

    Modify steel section of sump. buggered it up big-time. i've got it to seal almost now. Thanks to GP-users i've since Araldited, bogged, newtech'ed, and duct-taped the crack in the bottom of it. it's almost leak-proof now. Truck will be going to taupo in 2 months for alloy sump to be made up, and converted to a rear-pickup.

    Fitted fan, electric fuel pump etc. have to replace a few bits of fuel line with high pressure stuff yet. Removed traction control butterfly from throttle body, welded up holes left. Removed fluid fan drive from engine's serpentine belt system, also removed a/c pump.

    I couldnt get the diesel tacho to work with the new engine, so i got a $250 VDO unit and cut up my console to fit it. It looks almost factory now, apart from the raised lip around the edge. Quite a tricly job, but easy enough to do with a craft knife and soldering iron.

    Before i moved away from taupo, i got a program loaded into the LINK, it's since proved to be incredibly rich (he told me it was a "power" tune O_o ), so that'll have to go. At the moment, the fumes from the exhaust sting your eyes, and you get blue flames coming out past the wheels. fun, but not ideal.

    There's more, but that's all i can remember..



    I started it up 2 months ago, what an awesome feeling. This last tuesday i actually drove it. I still cant describe how good it felt. finally, after 1.5years, i got the damn thing moving.



    So far, it's cost me around $13000. i budgeted for $11000, and that was with $2000 for over-runs. I got a $15000 loan to pay for it, and bought my Safari off trademe at the same time, for $3500.

    I've still got an estimated $2500 to go till it's dyno-tuned, certified, alarmed, and wof & reg.

    Then i can finally get it out in the bush. I try not to think of the end use, when i consider what it's cost me so far.






    better pics to follow, bout time i took some new ones.

  2. Post
    #2

  3. Post
    #3
    wheelbase is pretty much the same as a RWD starlet. however, it weighed in at 1800kg with the old motor..

    Attached Images


  4. Post
    #4
    engine. clearance on firewall is about 10mm, a little less on the RH side. note 20m of zip tube

    Attached Images


  5. Post
    #5
    other shot of engine.

    remote oil filter is mounted in front of battery. had to get a plate welded up to bolt on the old filter mounting point on the block. I used a front sump 1-UZ, i shouldve waited and got a mid or rear sump version.

    16" electric fan $180, used the factory 3-core radiator, cleaned out and a filler neck soldered on top.

    Radiator hoses are a mix of 1-UZ, and XF falcon, with a bit of bongo diesel top-hose. plus exhaust pipe to join.

    Attached Images


  6. Post
    #6
    pile of dodgy fuses, relays, and quick-connects. will all be put into a "click-clack" lunchbox for waterproofing. I've got all the wiring going back to this one set of plugs so that it'll be easy to pull the engine out if needs be.

    using four relays to run it: power to computer, power to igniter, fan, fuel pump. I got a new 6-way fusebox from Narva. it's got a common power feed with fusible outputs.

    note even more zip tube. 20m is a pretty fair estimate

    Attached Images


  7. Post
    #7
    Thirteen grand for a Commodore V6 transplant?

    Someone's pocketing about $10k

  8. Post
    #8
    interior..racing steering wheel au.

    Attached Images


  9. Post
    #9
    bought the tyres off a car dealer for $300 for four. they're super swamper TSL's, 9 x 32 x 16 (what's this in metric sizes?).

    The wheels are ROH Trek's, 16 x 10, $400 for four from a mate at a tyre shop. got tubes for free too.

    3 about 3/4 tread, one front one has been spun down to about 1/2 tread.

    Attached Images


  10. Post
    #10
    GaR wrote:
    Thirteen grand for a Commodore V6 transplant?

    Someone's pocketing about $10k

    keep in mind i started this project in taupo. when my only other vehicle was a 4-age celica. i couldnt find any commodores locally for less than $2500, and any wrecked ones, i would have had no way of getting them to taupo, nor would my arsehole boss (his wife, actually) let me strip a car apart in the workshop...

    A 1-UZ sounded so affordable...engine for only $1000. even with igniter it was only $1150 came with a trade gaurantee too.

  11. Post
    #11
    So I'm safe to assume the typo of an extra 1 in the price for the engine, really is a typo?

    $11k for a 1-UZ? You could buy a V12 for that.

  12. Post
    #12
    scary munsta wrote:
    So I'm safe to assume the typo of an extra 1 in the price for the engine, really is a typo?

    $11k for a 1-UZ? You could buy a V12 for that.


    nup. wasnt a typo. those prices were for full conversion, doing most of the work myself.


    motor itself ended up at $1150 with a trade gaurantee (ie: the wrecker i got it from knew i was a mechanic, and all that goes with that..)

    Similarly, a 1KZ-TE 3.0 turbo diesel engine would've been a similar cost figure, but i would've needed to replace the gearbox and have custom driveshafts and gearbox mounts. I like the idea of having standard running gear in a 4WD..

  13. Post
    #13
    cool man should be fun when its fully finished!

    add me to msn if you use it nockyj@hotmail.com

    No doubt ill come up with some questions when im doing mine.

  14. Post
    #14
    4wd wrote:
    bought the tyres off a car dealer for $300 for four.
    That is a fcking STEAL, my uncle pays about 400per tyre for his 4wds

  15. Post
    #15
    all the wiring i can do is finished now. It's going to the auto sparkie's later on this month for the alternator wiring, the immobiliser, and to sort out why the elctric window circuit keeps popping fuses.

    all going well it'll be on the road by new years. (assuming i've got the money to do it )


    So only 3 major jobs left. Sump, Exhaust, Tuning.



    I've been given another set of 30x9.5x15 tyres, so that brings the total up to 4 full sets of wheels, and a spare set of burnout tyres. There's the mud tyres in the pics, plus the old wheels and tyres from my Jackaroo (Firestone ATX's), plus the worn tyres and alloy wheels that were on the 'cruiser when i got it (burnouts..)

  16. Post
    #16
    Excellent work man, hope you get it running for new years! It's gonna be brutal as

  17. Post
    #17
    14 second toyota landbasha

    cool

  18. Post
    #18
    i was at a loose end yesterday, so i took it out for a drive, no exhausts, to make sure it ran ok once it warmed up. everything went very well, but i mustve been a little happy on the gas. when i got home there was an answerphone message from the neighbour 3km up the road, saying he was trying to have a BBQ and all he could hear was my wagon blatting up the road, clear as a bell.

    I think i'll park it till i get more exhuast

  19. Post
    #19
    nah , send the neighbour some earmuffs

  20. Post
    #20
    I wanna hear it with no mufflers.
    Sound clip and/or video clip of the car running + youtube.

    Thanks
    Chris

  21. Post
    #21
    would if i could, but no video camera/phone or even microphone, sorry

    mail me one & i'd be happy to

  22. Post
    #22
    well, sold my Safari, so the cruiser's going to the engineer next week. time to waste some more $$$


    Should be on the road in 3 weeks, all going to plan ('course, knowing how these things go, it'll be next year at least.) Getting a new sump made up from 4mm alloy plate, then welded to the existing alloy section of sump (to retain bolt pattern and bellhousing gussets), the oil pickup turned 180 degrees and extended, to make it a rear pickup engine, and getting the exhaust system made up. With a re-tune of the LINK, it should be mint.

    Then all that's left is re-assemble the dash, wire in an oil pressure gauge, replace a few random bits of fuel line, and go get it certified.

  23. Post
    #23
    you paid way too much for the it in the first place 2K for and 87 anything is too much :P

  24. Post
    #24
    SweetSaint wrote:
    you paid way too much for the it in the first place 2K for and 87 anything is too much :P


    Each to their own, this is a Landcruiser, it has a tidy body, it was Reg and Wof, with 10 000new kms on the RUC, It was running fairy well for a 2L-T with 200 000kms+ on the clock, and it's an excellent base for a conversion.

    The suspension being coil sprung beam axles means it's got plenty of travel, and room for upgrade (ie lift), also it avoids the usual Landcruiser problem of leaf springs turning inside out. It's not the best handling vehicle on the road, but then that's not what it's being built for.

    The newest vehicle i've owned was a 1990 Familia GT, bought for $500. In the last 5 years (since i started my apprenticeship), i've owned 13 cars, all except this and a Nissan Safari cost $500 or less to buy.

    Given that newer vehicles = more money, you dont want to go out and buy a 1998ish 4x4 for about $20 000 then go out and roll it over in the bush.

    Granted, it has cost me more than $12 000 to date, but the original plan was to buy it, use it as my main bush truck, and see how long i got before the engine packed a sad (being a 2L-T it's a case of when, not if). unfortunately i only got a month out of it, but them's the breaks.

    So yeah...

  25. Post
    #25
    4wd wrote:
    Each to their own, this is a Landcruiser, it has a tidy body, it was Reg and Wof, with 10 000new kms on the RUC, It was running fairy well for a 2L-T with 200 000kms+ on the clock, and it's an excellent base for a conversion.

    The suspension being coil sprung beam axles means it's got plenty of travel, and room for upgrade (ie lift), also it avoids the usual Landcruiser problem of leaf springs turning inside out. It's not the best handling vehicle on the road, but then that's not what it's being built for.

    The newest vehicle i've owned was a 1990 Familia GT, bought for $500. In the last 5 years (since i started my apprenticeship), i've owned 13 cars, all except this and a Nissan Safari cost $500 or less to buy.

    Given that newer vehicles = more money, you dont want to go out and buy a 1998ish 4x4 for about $20 000 then go out and roll it over in the bush.

    Granted, it has cost me more than $12 000 to date, but the original plan was to buy it, use it as my main bush truck, and see how long i got before the engine packed a sad (being a 2L-T it's a case of when, not if). unfortunately i only got a month out of it, but them's the breaks.

    So yeah...
    chur right each to there own lol