What did you do to your car today?

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  1. Post
    Get a Volvo seat and sim in comfort

  2. Post
    my mates HyperSimulator is sitting on my floor rn, ill take a photo of it later, but i'm too scared to get into it due to it being ****ing tiny.

    I reckon a captians chair from the back of a minivan would be a sweet sim seat. a bit upright but, arms on both sides

  3. Post
    I used to use an ae111 1996 onwards toyota Levin / trueno drivers seat, as an office chair. Adjustable lumber (i think). They are dirt cheap.

  4. Post
    Triple_S wrote:
    I found the CL1/CL7 Recaros to be pretty good, and im not small. DC2R/EK9R Recaros are stupidly tight.
    Japanese DC2-R seats are the best thing I've ever sat in - the later ones are way too wide for me.

  5. Post
    Whoops.

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  6. Post
    ^^


  7. Post
    GaR wrote:
    There's no reason to use a sporty seat in a sim rig, since there's no need for lateral support.

    I got a seat from a 1990ish Galant/Eterna from Pickapart, chosen for its comfort. Something lighter would be better for portability, mind you.
    I just sent a 92 Galent that I had sitting on hold for 11 years to wreckers last month - it only had 150k on the clock and the seats were in mint condition. I did think about it, especially after the fact they gave me bugger all for the car...

    It doesn't need to be particularity light, as it will be setup permanently in what was my dining room. Though because it is there and visible from the lounge I'd prefer it to look nice, as well as being comfortable, if that is possible.

    The most comfortable car seat I've had was an 86 Royale, it was like a lounge chair. My second favourite would have to have been the leather seats in my 92 Soarer.

    I got a mate who is a joiner to make a small tall purpose built desk to mount my steering wheel at the exact right height for me. So I am just using that with my racing style office chair for the time being, before determining how much I want to spend on a full sim rig setup.

  8. Post
    I have one of these and rate it highly. Have had tons of friends of varying shapes and sizes use it comfortably. You can test it at Playtech I think, or at least you could when I bought mine.

    https://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/...ckpit/26779313


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  9. Post
    Found the hole in the block

    Sent from my M6 Note using Tapatalk

  10. Post
    nzskater wrote:
    I have one of these and rate it highly. Have had tons of friends of varying shapes and sizes use it comfortably. You can test it at Playtech I think, or at least you could when I bought mine.

    https://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/...ckpit/26779313
    I asked a popular YouTube sim racer who is 6ft 2" and has a few hundred hours of experience testing that, and he didn't recommend it for someone my size. It is also a bit of faff to change the seating postilion from GT to F1 - like not something you'd do on the fly.

    I'm in Christchurch, the main Harvey Norman has the GT Ultimate V2 setup to test I've been told, but I don't really like the look of it for the money, the new GT Track looks better, but I'd much prefer the Aussie made Trak Racer RS6 MACH 2 below (sans the seat), which will be too much of a tight fit for me:

    I might just end up importing the GT1 Evo sans seat from Sim Labs in The Netherlands

  11. Post
    Yeah it is a bit of a hassle to change seating position. Iíve just left mine in F1 as I find it comfortable.

    Recommend testing one out - itís one of the more comfortable setups Iíve used. Iím only 179cm and 65kg though.

  12. Post
    I can see why it would work well for someone your size, but I've got half a foot and nearly 50kg on you, so I'll take his word for it, being he is much closer to my size and knows the back problems that come with that, which aren't helped by the thin padding on that seat

    Besides the fact there is nowhere to test one here that I know of. I've also seen how awkward it is for him to get in and out of on his streams, and being that I'm hitting the big 40 later this year, ease of use and comfort are up the top of my list of requirements.

  13. Post


    Skids on grass, though as you can see, it was a bit like rocks, and not so much like nice green grassy stuff.

  14. Post
    Sump, subframe, oil pump, and engine mounts are in the country.
    Customs is ****ing expensive

  15. Post
    I got reemed by them the other week, thanks to DHL collecting it on their behalf before it even gets into the country. The import fees were as much as the GST - farking tax on a tax bullshit.

  16. Post
    Got a potential buyer getting an AA inspection done in an hour.
    Don't know why i'm nervous. The car is fine and done me well for 18 months.

    I think its just because they haven't talked price yet so seem happy with asking price, where all the other interest I've had is low ball offers.
    If I get asking price or close to, I can easily afford a replacment car and a cheap bike. If I take one of the lowball offers then its no bike for me.

  17. Post
    Personally I wouldn't pay any money on inspections until I've agreed on price. So you might get lucky and have someone that's happy to pay your sticker price with negotiation based on any issues from the inspection.

  18. Post
    Gamblor wrote:
    Personally I wouldn't pay any money on inspections until I've agreed on price. So you might get lucky and have someone that's happy to pay your sticker price with negotiation based on any issues from the inspection.
    That's what I thought was a little weird, anytime I look at a car and everyone else that's contacted me about this one has tried to set a price before even seeing the car.

    They started their email off "Hi xxx, we got the AA Inspection report today but unfortunately" and I was like ahh **** what have they found..

    Then read the rest and they were saying unfortunately it was received too late in the day to make any progress. They were pretty happy with the report, but its got a couple of cosmetic blemishes etc and would you take 10% less than asking price.

    They're been pretty easy to deal with and live in Wellington so will have to spend a bit of time or money to get it down there. Their offer was a couple hundy more than my bottom dollar so I accepted and even said I'll throw in a full tank of gas. Now I just need to wait for the sale to be finalised.

  19. Post
    Ordered new guts for the crank angle sensor on my Skyline as it's starting to throw a real spaz.
    It randomly pulls timing and when I restarted it on the way home yesterday it decided I was idling at 10,000RPM according to the rev counter lol.
    Ideally I want to change to a proper trigger wheel setup, but I can't justify the purchase and retune cost at the moment.

  20. Post
    sounds like a pretty easy done deal and you have even sweetened the deal which is always a nice gesture.

  21. Post
    Does anyone know how dealers can charge on road costs extra when the car has a valid number plate and a current WOF?

    example this one guy is after +$300 ORC but it got a WOF in December 18 and it has a current number plate that matches everything in carjam. Its pretty much on road ready.

  22. Post
    Lemieux_66 wrote:
    Does anyone know how dealers can charge on road costs extra when the car has a valid number plate and a current WOF?

    example this one guy is after +$300 ORC but it got a WOF in December 18 and it has a current number plate that matches everything in carjam. Its pretty much on road ready.
    They'll probably spout some crap about servicing it. Or they are so used to selling fresh imports that they added ORC without thinking about it.

  23. Post
    Pandaemonaeon wrote:
    Ordered new guts for the crank angle sensor on my Skyline as it's starting to throw a real spaz.
    It randomly pulls timing and when I restarted it on the way home yesterday it decided I was idling at 10,000RPM according to the rev counter lol.
    Ideally I want to change to a proper trigger wheel setup, but I can't justify the purchase and retune cost at the moment.
    See a lot of people running these now days: https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/s...-trigger-kits/
    I was running factory CAS with an ATI and on run-in the box for the idle ignition table was all over the show. Ended up shelling out on Ross set-up and come full tune, was dead level. Best money I spent on the build I reckon, having had a motor let go due to a previous factory CAS timing slip.
    But yeah $$$ and then tune on top $$$ unfortunately.

  24. Post
    Lemieux_66 wrote:
    Does anyone know how dealers can charge on road costs extra when the car has a valid number plate and a current WOF?

    example this one guy is after +$300 ORC but it got a WOF in December 18 and it has a current number plate that matches everything in carjam. Its pretty much on road ready.
    LOL!
    but 300 is the cheapest ORC, most places charge 500 for 6 months rego and 1 year wof, not even 1 year rego...

  25. Post
    The only time I've met it, I emailed them and said "why ORC for a car that's already on the road?".

    They said "doesn't apply to your car, it's just standard wording that somebody has forgot to take off the ad text".