Project 180SX

[Adam-BRO]

This is my (currently problematic lemon) Nissan Silvia 180sx, I paid $6300 for it when I first bought it (2-3 weeks ago).
All messages along the lines of "Adam BRO, ow skidz hard chur mean boe" are not welcome here.

All advice, positive comments, and help are appreciated.





Specs as of Purchase
-1989, Nissan Silvia 180sx.
-CA18DET
-Manual (Has been converted)
-Garrett T25 Turbo running 12.5 psi via Wastegate Spring
-Front Mounter Inter-cooler
-17x9 Drifteks (quite a few stone chips)
-HKS SSQ BOV
-38mm Genuine Tial Wastegate
-Standard Clutch(*)
-One Reclinable Limited Edition Recaro Bucket Seat
-Buddy Club Shift Knob
-Clear Type X Style Tail Lights
-P Plates 'KNOWN'
-Body kit all round
-Straight Through Exhaust (I think its 2.5')
-Blue Lowering Springs (Apparently Lovell's).
-Brand new WOF & REG
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Modifications Since Purchase
- Installed Heavy Duty Clutch and Machine Flywheel.

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To do list
-Remove Condensation from Tail Lights
-Install my Garrett T28 (Recently had a $1350 rebuild)
-Purchase and Install 440cc/444cc injectors
-Purchase and Install 300ZX/Z32 AFM
-Purchase and Install an Aftermarket Fuel Pump
-Purchase and Install a Chip for ECU
-Wind up boost to 18-22psi.
-Remove cat to create more free-flowing exhaust
-Swap my Springs for my friends Adjustables and Install
-Purchase another Reclinable Recaro
-Get a cert for Adjusties

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(*)I thought it was a standard clutch at the time, Read post below.

Will add more to lists as I think of things, lots I will have forgotten.

[Adam-BRO]

PROBLEMS SO FAR:

2 Days after purchasing this beast I managed to blow the clutch. I took it to a local performance specialist mechanic and got a new Heavy Duty clutch and the Flywheel Machined. It turned into more of a hassle then it should have, the clutch that was previously in there was a 4WD Bluebird clutch, there was cross threaded bolts all over the place. Apparently whoever did the manual conversion did a **** job which all got cleaned up.
$1618 later she's good to go again.

After getting her back the next week I noticed that coolant/water were rapidly coming out from under the head, Once again off to the mechanic (a better and cheaper) one this time. Inlet Manifold Gaskets needed replacing as well as the radiator ( I believe the top tank was split). So I sourced a barely used second hand radiator from an automatic S13 for $150 (Should have got an aluminum one) and got the mechanic to do the inlet manifold gaskets. $483 later she's back on the road again. The mechanic actually did 8hrs of labor but only charged me for 4hrs .

After this I noticed the car starting to overheat a couple of times, luckily I saved it from cooking and turned it off in time, all of these cases have been the fans not coming on, the fan wiring seems to be loose but I have adjusted it now and it seems to be staying on (always on, controlled by an in car switch).

After these problems I've realized that the stuff I've been paying the mechanics to do is easy, and could easily be done by myself and if I need a hand my brothers a mechanic. So the majority of problems from now are going to be dealt to by me and him.

[dekodE]

Just a note, you could of bought a new radiator for $150. PM me if keen.
Also curious why you would go for a SR20DE, and not a SR20DET. Do it once, do it right?

[Disco Dan]

It would be pointless to pay the extra dosh for an aluminium radiator, friend of mine was looking into them and the radiator specialists told him they make absolutely no diff to a street car.

[Adam-BRO]

Just a note, you could of bought a new radiator for $150. PM me if keen.
Also curious why you would go for a SR20DE, and not a SR20DET. Do it once, do it right?

It's going SR20DE+T, have the higher compression and lowish boost. I thought it would be really un-reliable but my friend has had his on 14psi for the last few years and hasn't had that many problems. If the SR20DE blows then I'll just get it fully rebuilt (forged). Some people I talk to agree with you but some people I talk to agree with me... Cheaper power for money on the DE+T, either way though I understand, It's NOT going to be cheap.

Sorry I would but the radiators been done.
But if anyone can source me nice cheap SR20DE parts then please do get in touch .

[chr]

SR20DE+T's go fine, nothing wrong with that. Personally i'd be ditching the gay P plate, nothing worse than people been able to remember your number plate when they see you ripping up.

[chr]

PROBLEMS SO FAR: After getting her back the next week I noticed that coolant/water were rapidly coming out from under the head, Once again off to the mechanic (a better and cheaper) one this time. Inlet Manifold Gaskets needed replacing as well as the radiator ( I believe the top tank was split). So I sourced a barely used second hand radiator from an automatic S13 for $150 (Should have got an aluminum one) and got the mechanic to do the inlet manifold gaskets. $483 later she's back on the road again. The mechanic actually did 8hrs of labor but only charged me for 4hrs .

Think you got played there a bit haha. To take 8 hours to replace a inlet manifold and radiator, you would have to be doing it with 1 hand tied behind your back. 4 hours is pretty realistic if you took it easy.

[MikeOkislong]

Dont put an SR20 in it. Keep it was the CA18DET. Its the most underated engine around. Most can go a lot harder than sr20's. ( if put together properly ). higher compression. Keep the 1800 mate its wont blow up and can get some serious hp outa them

[zmbi]

Damn, this car wasn't cheap after all. Good luck with the project, the only advice I can give you is listen to the advice (credible) people give you. :P

[Adam-BRO]

Dont put an SR20 in it. Keep it was the CA18DET. Its the most underated engine around. Most can go a lot harder than sr20's. ( if put together properly ). higher compression. Keep the 1800 mate its wont blow up and can get some serious hp outa them

Hey,
Thanks for the advice. Everything you guys say will go into consideration. The problem i've found with CA18's is sourcing parts for them (not many CA18's around), and my one has done 170,xxx km's. Basically my goal atm is 200rwkw, to get this on a SR20DE+T isn't going to cost too much. Any idea on how much it would cost for a CA18DET?

In other news, a silly asian friend of mine has offered me his 180sx adjustables and shocks, for my lowering springs and shocks. I asked him why he would want to do that (I was about to laugh but then he could change his mind LOL ), and he just said it's because he doesn't want to have to get a cert and thinks adjusties are stupid.

Personally i'd be ditching the gay P plate, nothing worse than people been able to remember your number plate when they see you ripping up.

Yeah that's the bad thing about this plate, but I don't know if I wanna sell it, it's one of the exciting things about the car haha.
But then again I could probably sell it for around $1000.

It's a tough decision.

[ChopperNZ]

I dunno, your friend has a point, quite often a good shock/spring set up can be a much more suitable option for a street driven car. Honestly every damn car I've ridden in with adjustable coilovers has nearly made my back break. Half of them half been D2s though which are ****ing horseshit

[hadees]

No 1 tip to save money.
Get an enginner to do the work, NOT a mechanic(parts fitter).

My gtr was quoted 4k to do mechanical to wof std using genuine nissan parts. Engineer did it for 1k using aftermarket parts + me helping for a day.

Mechanics just fit parts and use genuine cause when aftermarket dont fit they are stuffed.
An engineer makes things work there and then, no fooking around.

Your clutch issue an engineer would have sorted in half the time as its what they do everyday.
And i wouldnt bother with coil overs for street.

[Magnetic Flux]

where would one find an engineer?

[@dam]

Nice. What wheels are those?

[fUrBuRgEr]

Nice. What wheels are those?

17x9 Drifteks (quite a few stone chips)

[Adam-BRO]

Okay I have been persuaded by quite a few to stick to a CA18 (till it dies at least, Then I have to decide between rebuild, or sr20 or another ca1.
I've just updated my original post to the plan that will be followed

Quick question:
Is it going to run like shit if I do the mods I have listed without getting it a Tune?

I dunno, your friend has a point, quite often a good shock/spring set up can be a much more suitable option for a street driven car. Honestly every damn car I've ridden in with adjustable coilovers has nearly made my back break. Half of them half been D2s though which are ****ing horseshit

Even if I take them and then decide I hate them, I'd make my money back easily by re-selling. My car is going to be driven on street and track (Slipway ftw!). They are kei adjustables.

[c0nc0n]

Will you actually have enough money to finish this?

Borrowing money for your car is just ridiculously stupid

[hadees]

where would one find an engineer?

Everywhere.
If you are in welly i can name half a dozen.
Basically they are welders/machinists half the time and the other half they work on race cars/hot rods/4x4 racers/classic cars etc. Well thats the sort of engineers ya want working on your car.

My engineer could basically make a car from scratch, and knows how everything works.
My engineer costs $45per hour and has all the machining tools on site to make anything work.
My mechanic costs $60per hour and has fook all machining tools.

[Roman]

Dont bother changing airflow meter and/or injectors without changing the computer also.

Get a fairly good understanding of how EFI and the sensors work before changing anything to do with it... Or you'll be wasting money you could have spent on an ECU, on buying a motor to replace the one that you just blew up for no good reason.

Same goes for turning up the boost without making sure the engine is getting enough fuel to go with.

170,000kms isnt a lot, should have heaps of go left in that motor!

I like the colour of the car, looks good. Cant believe how easy it can fit 9" wheels

If you can get 1k for the P plate, sell it! Way better things need to be bought.

[Mutton]

Swapping the engine out is a waste of money unless you're going for the SR20DET, or an RB25DET. Stick with the CA imo. Only replace it if you _have_ to.

[Adam-BRO]

Will you actually have enough money to finish this?

Borrowing money for your car is just ridiculously stupid

I'm looking for full time work and have 3 job interviews next week after that I should be good to go

Dont bother changing airflow meter and/or injectors without changing the computer also.

Get a fairly good understanding of how EFI and the sensors work before changing anything to do with it... Or you'll be wasting money you could have spent on an ECU, on buying a motor to replace the one that you just blew up for no good reason.

Same goes for turning up the boost without making sure the engine is getting enough fuel to go with.

170,000kms isnt a lot, should have heaps of go left in that motor!

I like the colour of the car, looks good. Cant believe how easy it can fit 9" wheels

If you can get 1k for the P plate, sell it! Way better things need to be bought.

I like the colour of it too but the paint is starting to fade near the back. My best mate is an apprentice spray-painter though and he's gonna paint it for me.

I don't know much about ECU's, what brand/model should I be looking for? Do I have to fork out thousands for a link?
Or what about something like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-281984705.htm
or this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-282853662.htm

[demonic1]

Looking good man, hopefully u keep it long enough to make it decent. Dont swap it for some peice of shit like u seem to want to with every other car
As for ECU's, dont bother looking at one yet the stock one is fine

[MikeOkislong]

If you want to get 200rwkw thats not too hard. Simple things like.. bigger turbo..running more boost ( obviosly )..bigger injecters,,, bigger air flow meter off a 300zx,, pod filter?. All these things give you more power. Buy a chip for it off trademe. You could easily get 200rwkw. BUT only chip it after you have done everything else.

[Adam-BRO]

If you want to get 200rwkw thats not too hard. Simple things like.. bigger turbo..running more boost ( obviosly )..bigger injecters,,, bigger air flow meter off a 300zx,, pod filter?. All these things give you more power. Buy a chip for it off trademe. You could easily get 200rwkw. BUT only chip it after you have done everything else.

Those were exactly the mods I was thinking + fuel pump
I already have the bigger Garrett T28 turbo and plan on turning it up to about 19-20psi when I have supporting mods.
Can you please give me a link to the sort of 'chip' i'm looking for

thanks.

[MikeOkislong]

Those were exactly the mods I was thinking + fuel pump
I already have the bigger Garrett T28 turbo and plan on turning it up to about 19-20psi when I have supporting mods.
Can you please give me a link to the sort of 'chip' i'm looking for

thanks.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-283140375.htm

you will need to get someone who can solder to install it.