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  1. Post
    #26
    hypothetically speaking, I get confused which is which, but i'd prefer the outer style one (i.e RDA goes over the top of mod, not inside). up to but not over $20

  2. Post
    #27
    510 as RDAs arent really optimal on eGO batteries.

    Price depends on quality, looks etc.. Im not really sure.

    Probably best designing/prototyping first

  3. Post
    #28
    clip wrote:
    hypothetically speaking, I get confused which is which, but i'd prefer the outer style one (i.e RDA goes over the top of mod, not inside). up to but not over $20
    okays, will keep this in mind, also thats eGo threading 510 is the inside one (the one that strips out of vamo's)

  4. Post
    #29
    ok help a brother out, im having some real difficulties with RDA's ive hit on 2 IGO's now (the igo l and igo w) and both times the juice pops, theres sod all vapour and it hits the back of my throat with heat, which chokes the hell out of me as bad as yuriko was struggling with his juices, ive wound a couple of coils (i dont know what size the wire is, its whatever Camz sent me with that other RDA) to see if that was the problem, all of them between 2 and 2.7 ohm, and varying voltages to try and solve the issue, im using cotton wicks, im pretty much building them the same as i would a protank head.

    HALP, also keep in mind its not the juice, i can chain vape 18mg at 80pg20vg all day and not get the issues people seem to get, its just these RDA's and i must be doing something wrong, i just have no ****ing idea what it is

    also its not all RDA's either, i was hittin on feijays one quite a bit at the bbq vape meet and it was all g for the most part

  5. Post
    #30
    try 0mg juice. some juices just don't like being rda vaped i've found

  6. Post
    #31
    yea ive tried a juice that worked mint on feijays, is there something about using cotton in them?

    for ****s n giggles i just tried using the wicks/coils that come with the rda, its better, so im putting it down to the coils or the wick, and on to another note, how the hell do you wind a nice coil with silica wick?

  7. Post
    #32
    St4lk3r wrote:
    yea ive tried a juice that worked mint on feijays, is there something about using cotton in them?

    for ****s n giggles i just tried using the wicks/coils that come with the rda, its better, so im putting it down to the coils or the wick, and on to another note, how the hell do you wind a nice coil with silica wick?
    NFI, the only way i've been able to do it is to wrap it round the silica itself but I couldn't get a tight wrap, it's more like the iclear/evod style wraps where coils aren't touching.

    for my rda/cotton coils i do 5-6 wraps of 0.32mm kanthal, push them tight together on the screwdriver, then put it on the RDA, torch it until red hot then put screwdriver through and push them together again, do this a few times so they are nice and tight (easier to squash when hot). Then roll up cotton and feed it through the coil.
    put some juice on, get it nice and wet, i normally do 2-3 6second bursts while blowing on it to 'prime it', then re-load with juice and vape away

  8. Post
    #33
    Greek wrote:
    It's not shorting out when you put the RDA cap back on is it?
    nah the vamo is super strict on short protection and the coils are pretty close to the posts its just not possible

    clip wrote:
    NFI, the only way i've been able to do it is to wrap it round the silica itself but I couldn't get a tight wrap, it's more like the iclear/evod style wraps where coils aren't touching.

    for my rda/cotton coils i do 5-6 wraps of 0.32mm kanthal, push them tight together on the screwdriver, then put it on the RDA, torch it until red hot then put screwdriver through and push them together again, do this a few times so they are nice and tight (easier to squash when hot). Then roll up cotton and feed it through the coil.
    put some juice on, get it nice and wet, i normally do 2-3 6second bursts while blowing on it to 'prime it', then re-load with juice and vape away
    the only other way i could think to do it is hold wick up to the needle end i use for wrapping doing it tight including both for rigidity then sliding the needle out leaving the silica there, yea ill just experiment when my wire arrives from NV, it should be here by now they shipped it yesterday

  9. Post
    #34
    St4lk3r wrote:
    ok help a brother out, im having some real difficulties with RDA's ive hit on 2 IGO's now (the igo l and igo w) and both times the juice pops, theres sod all vapour and it hits the back of my throat with heat, which chokes the hell out of me as bad as yuriko was struggling with his juices, ive wound a couple of coils (i dont know what size the wire is, its whatever Camz sent me with that other RDA) to see if that was the problem, all of them between 2 and 2.7 ohm, and varying voltages to try and solve the issue, im using cotton wicks, im pretty much building them the same as i would a protank head.

    HALP, also keep in mind its not the juice, i can chain vape 18mg at 80pg20vg all day and not get the issues people seem to get, its just these RDA's and i must be doing something wrong, i just have no ****ing idea what it is

    also its not all RDA's either, i was hittin on feijays one quite a bit at the bbq vape meet and it was all g for the most part
    Sounds like the wick could be either too tightly/lightly rolled. You sort of need to be in between those extremes. Also the resistance is pretty high, I wouldn't go higher than 2ohm in a RDA. And don't flood the deck with juice unless you're going sub ohm aka EXTREME. Could also try raising the coil a bit so its not swimming in juice and instead put a little cotton cloud under the coil instead.

  10. Post
    #35
    St4lk3r wrote:
    nah the vamo is super strict on short protection and the coils are pretty close to the posts its just not possible



    the only other way i could think to do it is hold wick up to the needle end i use for wrapping doing it tight including both for rigidity then sliding the needle out leaving the silica there, yea ill just experiment when my wire arrives from NV, it should be here by now they shipped it yesterday
    I can bring some if/when we catch up to borrow the vamo and we can try some wraps also feij's suggestions below are good!

  11. Post
    #36
    sweet sounds good, when suits you, ive got a bbq to go to tomorrow late arvo/evening so before that or sometime sunday /monday works

  12. Post
    #37
    Should be free tomorrow until 2pm haircut so perhaps we aim for 1130ish ?

  13. Post
    #38
    thats a bit early but i should be able to do it

  14. Post
    #39
    haha lets make it 1230 then? pm me your address, dunno how far west you are/how long it'll take me to get back to my hairdresser in remmers

  15. Post
    #40
    i can come to you, ive gotta pick up jakkeh in the morning anyways (11: 30-12 works fine )

  16. Post
    #41
    where are people getting their wire from normally out of curiosity?

  17. Post
    #42
    TEMCO is cheap.

    With that oddy youre probably best to twist the ends that go to pos / neg and have the coil wrapped normally.

    Test it in dripping mode before filling up the tank because its a bitch if you ****ed your build up.

    To wrap silica I use a pin to keep it straight and wrap it, then pull pin out.

    Sent you 32ga btw, may be better to use a lower gauge wire.

  18. Post
    #43
    Twisted 28ga 0.3ohm combined


  19. Post
    #44
    St4lk3r wrote:
    where are people getting their wire from normally out of curiosity?
    http://lightning-vapes.myshopify.com/

    Have to order through YouShop but wire is about $3-4 per 25 feet.

  20. Post
    #45
    so my NV .32mm kanthal arrived today so after coming in from the workshop i had a play, i did a 7 wrap (around a syringe tip) coil, worked out to be .hm, too low, so i did a 15 wrap one and said f**k it thatll do, came out at 1.6ohm, rolled and fed cotton thru the coil and around and tucked it underneath etc, so a fair bit of fluff, prolly 5 times what youd use in a protank head build, same issue, much popping little vapour and too hot in throat, so i took the fluff out of the centre of the coil and packed it underneath it instead, much better but still pretty unmanageable

    one thing i did notice was when i stopped trying to go all "feijay" on it and brought it back to 4.0v it got better, but not much, then as the fluid got much lower (so instead of the fluff being very wet, a more dark centre but white traces on the outer extremity, if that makes sense) it became manageable, and vapour production went up, then the hot/popping and throat burn went down and normal throat hit returned, so i guess what im asking is is it possible ive just been making it too wet?

    -e- feijay im still gunna get you to "build" it for me at the bbq so i can watch and see im not doing it wrong if thats ok with you tho

  21. Post
    #46
    So assuming you're rebuilding an RDA..

    Are you using a Vamo? If yes then you need to pretty much have the resistance at the lowest possible otherwise with .32mm/28ga the response will be too slow and the coil won't get hot enough. Like I said before you don't want the coil submerged in juice so you can try wicking it like a clearo. Aim for 1.2ohm and lift the coil a good distance off the deck and have both ends of the wick drop down to wick from the deck and see if vapor production is improved. The wick should be lightly rolled and be thin enough so that you only feel very slight resistance when threading though.

    Oh and go straight to 15W/6V

  22. Post
    #47
    Is there a bit of a delay before it starts popping and burning you after pressing the button when it's drenched? I.e. Is it being drowned and takes longer to heat up before ending up too hot? Tried holding it for a bit then tapping the button quickly to try maintain a lower heat? Almost PWM stylezzz.

    I often drench my RDA heaps and don't have issues, and I'm using a 1.0ohm coil right now and HEAPS of cotton. Although my RDA has the coil way up high out of the way of puddles.



    I'm also using a mech-mod, so basically always stays under 4v depending on charge.

    Oh actually, I think it's air-flow. I tried building a dragon-coil, next to the air-tube instead of above it, and it looked like awesome vape production with the cap off, but when I put the cap on it had **** all vapour coming through the mouth-piece. I figured out it was because the air flow went up the tube in the middle, away from the coil, and it seemed like the coil was just putting vapour into an eddy inside the RDA and not up the tube, but the heat still rose up the mouth piece.

    Pics of the setup? I'm betting on either air-flow, or the puddle thing.
    Last edited by Greek; 23rd December 2013 at 11:46 pm.

  23. Post
    #48
    I just Googled the IGO's and see they're quite different from my Annunaki drippers. Lined up the airhole with the coil? Should be right next to it.

  24. Post
    #49
    It is airflow for your case Cam. I'm assuming the dragon coil needs air coming from the sides for maximum effectiveness.

    The puddle thing definately isn't the issue for your type of RDA since its never going to be in direct contact with juice otherwise you flood it.

  25. Post
    #50
    My RDA has no issues except with dragon coils. Spent so long trying to get that ****ing thing just hooked onto the posts lol, only to have ****ty air-flow. Was pretty much impossible for me to get it pointed towards the air-hole like you suggested a while ago. Might have to get you to show me how it's done with your super coiling steez.

    Have you managed to get a dragon coil going on your A7?

    Edit: Although yeah, the side air-flow thing, and I'd probably also need to use non-resistance wire for the long run back up to the posts.
    Last edited by Greek; 24th December 2013 at 12:05 am.