4 gyms in, about 16 hours play time, 111 captured unique mons and really enjoying it. I wish raids were tougher but I've only done 3 stars as a max so maybe they get harder. The online is quite interesting, being able to use the quick menu to jump into trades or raids (when it works, lots of errors) and even playing side by side with my son we can run around the wild area together, albeit very disconnected - other players behave more like realtime NPC's.
If you haven't already, remember to connect to the internet in the wild area and talk to other players, they give you free food for your cooking.