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  1. Post
    #1

    3D Printing

    Anyone doing anything in the maker-space with 3D printing?

    Set up my Ender 3 Pro in the weekend and have been learning a lot. Have already upgraded the filament feeder with an aluminium feeder. Have some Capricorn tubing in the mail and plan on ordering a tempered glass bed and some Micro Swiss hardened steel nozzles and have just this second received my bed leveling sensor.
    Oh, and some dampers.

    Currently using Slic3r. Tried Cura but it was a little overwhelming to start with. Will go back to it when I'm a little more confident. Plan on setting up my RPi with touch screen with either Repetier-Host or Octoprint, not sure yet!

  2. Post
    #2
    I have a CR10s pro and a Makerbot mini... Makerbot was such an easy printer to work with, even though quality is on the lower end.....
    Creality on the other hand; great quality when it works.... bed levelling is a pain in the butt...

  3. Post
    #3
    hamsap wrote:
    I have a CR10s pro and a Makerbot mini... Makerbot was such an easy printer to work with, even though quality is on the lower end.....
    Creality on the other hand; great quality when it works.... bed levelling is a pain in the butt...
    I've been having a blast dialing in my Ender 3 pro. I ended up purchasing a tempered glass bed with a coating that expands and contracts based on heat. Releases the print when it's cool but holds the PLA well when hot.

    Slic3r gave me an easy introduction into slicing and now I'm back with Cura as it gives me such a better result and does a much better job at minimizing stringing.

    Also have on order some TL-smoothers and tighter springs for the bed.

    Current project is printing an OctoPi case. I had the case printed however I learned a lot and am printing it again for a better result. Currently printing with a 0.15mm layer height, 30mm/s sprint speed and 200'C nozzle temp. Reason for slow print speed is I have my printer set on a wobbly desk, and with the added weight of a glass bed now it tends to jerk a LOT at higher speeds.

  4. Post
    #4
    I'm using a Ender 3 Pro as well. Nothing really modified apart from a few covers, cable clips etc...

    I use it heaps for prototyping things before getting them machined. Next upgrades will be a BL-Touch for auto levelling, a new hot end fan as mine has started to whine on initial startup and maybe a glass bed so that i dont get that matte finish on the bottom layer.

  5. Post
    #5
    I recently bought a Prusa MK3s kit. Designing custom prints to solve unique problems is incredibly satisfying!

    Most recently I've been playing with lithophanes. Working on a birthday present for the mrs

    I've been getting some blobs of plastic here and there which I haven't experienced printing anything else. I think I need to calibrate my extruder but I haven't gotten around to it yet. A bit of post processing with a hobby knife takes care of it

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  6. Post
    #6
    I use it for tabletop wargaming most of all.

    The most recent efforts are -

    Fully printed 10th Lyran Regulars "Stinging Barflies" company for Battletech: Alpha Strike. Still need to weather the decals and pretty up the bases.

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    The painted parts of my 2nd Marine Division for Team Yankee.

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  7. Post
    #7
    Nice! Do you think 3dprinting has disrupted the table top gaming industry? I remember checking out hobby stores as a kid and being blown away about how pricey some of the models were.

    Our flat goes through a lot of coffee and I got sick of filling up the bean hopper every second day. Printed a simple solution

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  8. Post
    #8
    I think it will have an effect as consumer models get cheaper and better. As of now they are still too fiddly for average Joe who has no interest spending half the time keeping it running.

    Each of those LAVs for Team Yankee for example likely used maybe 10-20c worth of filament and the official box of 5 of them from Mighty Ape is $56. Sure the quality is not quite there but the savings are ridiculous.

    Assuming you have found Thingiverse.com right? best site out there for free files of random things and also for wargaming its paradise.

    How big is that bean hopper compared to the original??

  9. Post
    #9
    I wonder how far away we are from printers that anyone can 'set and forget'.

    Yeah I've printed a bunch of stuff off thingiverse, it's pretty sweet. Where abouts are you getting your filament from? I've been using Esun branded stuff from '3d Printing Services' in Auckland. His prices are the best I've found and the filament seems to be pretty decent. I see people on message boards directly comparing it to the Hatchbox stuff.

    The original hopper only held ~250 grams worth of beans but now it takes 1.25kg

    Here's a couple of prints I designed in Fusion 360 for work. A bracket to hold my tool bag to the side of my roller cab and an organizer for an allen key set which originally came in a crappy little pouch.

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  10. Post
    #10
    I got a mate who swears by eSun and I plan to test it when my current roll runs out. I just buy some super cheap unbranded stuff from a guy who lives near me.

    I am running a super cheap Anet A8 so I am pretty relaxed with what I put through it and what I expect to get out of it.

  11. Post
    #11
    Nothing wrong with that, you've probably got a better idea of how to calibrate a machine than me. I've learned a fair bit and made some tweaks but I get the best prints by using other people's slicer profiles.

    I guess I'd recommend the Esun stuff for sure. It's a bit stringy compared to the prusa branded roll my printer came with but It's probably just my settings.

  12. Post
    #12
    Here's the CAD model i designed last week to mount a child safety latch (the pull up type at pools) to the rolling gate we have on our driveway. Works perfectly in PLA.

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    The real power of these machines is when you can draw up something and get it prototyped and ready to go in a few hours. It will be cool once stls become more common and more and more people start sharing

  13. Post
    #13
    Epic. I've been really impressed by just how strong PLA is. With a few perimeters and 50% infill some parts feel damn near unbreakable for every day tasks. Have you experienced any warping from using PLA outside?

  14. Post
    #14
    No warping at all. 50% infill is quite a lot, I realistically stick to around 20 or 30 for most things. If I want more strength I'll increase my wall thickness and design the shape of the part to be stronger

  15. Post
    #15
    My tool bag sometimes has ~15kg worth of crap in it so I beefed up the infill a fair bit on that one. Maybe I got carried away with 50% haha.

    Have you experimented with any other filaments? I'm building an enclosure for the printer and I used a roll of PETG to print all the parts. Dear god it sticks to the bed! I applied some window cleaner to the PEI sheet to try and reduce the adhesion but it only helped a little bit. I think I'll avoid using PETG again unless I need the temperature resistance.

  16. Post
    #16
    Mainly only used PLA. Enclosure is really only if you want ABS. Try a glass bed if you want to use PETG. It expands and conracts more than the PEI so by the time its cooled down it will have let go of the print

  17. Post
    #17
    My flatmate wants to print some parts for an electric snowboard he's building. I took on the enclosure as a bit of a project so he could give ABS a try. Our house is cold asf too. I've had a print fail due to a thermal runaway error. Cheers for the suggestion, I'll look into glass beds for sure. Prusa's PEI sheets aren't cheap with shipping. I'd rather not ruin mine

  18. Post
    #18
    Assuming you have some ventilation set up? While PLA is basically cheese, ABS is quite toxic so you need to extract those fumes.

  19. Post
    #19
    Has anyone had any experience with the davinci printers? I like the idea of a little box sitting on my workbench I can ask to do things and forget about, an open frame unit is less than ideal in my workshop environment

    Hell I don't even know what I'd print with it yet as I'm not up with 3d modelling n stuff and when I want to prototype I just manually machine shit into shape but I figure I should start tinkering so I can do important stuff while it's working

    I was looking at the davinci Pro 3 in 1

  20. Post
    #20
    Where did you guys get your Ender 3's from?

  21. Post
    #21
    Far out, this thread has exploded!

    I got mine from the official Creality 3D store on AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREA...594d4c4dj4eUOK

    I lost my fake, magnetized buildtak surface when I replaced it with a glass/crystal bed. I don't much like the glass bed as it has poor first layer adhesion so I've ordered another fake buildtak surface.

  22. Post
    #22
    Rii wrote:
    Far out, this thread has exploded!

    I got mine from the official Creality 3D store on AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREA...594d4c4dj4eUOK

    I lost my fake, magnetized buildtak surface when I replaced it with a glass/crystal bed. I don't much like the glass bed as it has poor first layer adhesion so I've ordered another fake buildtak surface.
    I clean mine with a quick spray of isopropyl alcohol and then spray a thin coat of hairspray for adhesion. I much prefer the finish of the glass bed. Try using a brim (if using cura as your slicer) or other adhesion function

  23. Post
    #23
    Yeah, I clean mine with IPA. Haven't wanted to really mess with any added coating for adhesion. Has hairspray caused any lasting effects on your bed? Still gives the base of your prints a smooth finish? What temp do you run the bed at with the hairspray on?

    Yeah, I use a brim for small prints that don't have much surface contact.

    Would like to know some Cura numbers that people use I tend to stick to 1.5 layer height, 35% infill, 70.C bed temp (due to having glass bed on top of my magnetic bed) and a 200.C nozzle.

  24. Post
    #24
    Hairspray is fine on the bed. Perfect first layer everytime. Bed is at 60 degrees

    I've been slowly dialing in my cura settings. You want a layer height that matches your nozzle (0.2mm for me) or be a multiple of that and then have your wall thickness also a multiple of that. Infill I change depending on the use of the part. If I require a lot of strength I'll increase wall thickness. I never go past 40% infill though. Temperature is dependent on your filament. I've found mine prints the best and is strongest at 195 but I recommend printing a temperature tower

  25. Post
    #25
    And any issues with levelling of the bed? I've read it can (is?) an issue with the Ender 3

    Cheers!