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  1. Post
    #26
    I have used gluestick extensively and works, just is messy.

    May try the hairspray once next.

  2. Post
    #27
    First time using brass heat inserts. Will need to change my design next time so that the hole is slightly wider at the top. This is for mounting these new spotlights using factory mounts for an evo 6

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  3. Post
    #28
    Roman's guide to minimizing 3d printing pain:

    The way people suggest levelling the bed right out by the edges, even though its "standard" makes no sense.
    Level the bed by having the nozzle directly over top of the adjustment knob as thats the pivot point.
    Otherwise the height that you're adjusting is a function of the closest adjustment wheel and the one diagonally opposite.
    So you have to go around in circles 100 bloody times to get it even as you end up over and under correcting.
    Think of it like a seesaw that's pivoting over the levelling knob.

    Also you will save yourself 6 billion hours with a 240v heated bed if you've got a big bed area.

    If using a compatible printer install Marlin Firmware and turn on Linear Advance. Its a more scientific method of dealing with "coasting" and it works at more than just one speed, unlike coasting which you'll drive yourself bloody mad trying to fine tune.

    Also turn on baby steps so you can fine tune the nozzle height when it starts printing and save yourself 5 billion frustrations.

    For a 0.4mm nozzle I find a 0.42mm line width is best for geometrical accuracy and surface finish.
    Usually the default is wider than that.

    Also, direct drive extruder is rediculously excellent.

    People say rafts suck, but trying to perfectly level a 500x500 bed to within fraction of a mm is rediculous.
    I find I waste less material from using a raft than not, because it massively minimizes warping issues and first layer issues.
    Issues with the first layer not quite sticking down properly in one corner have often come back to haunt me half way through a print when it warps up. Even the tiniest sliver of first layer doubt - Start again, it never works out better than you think haha.

    I've found gluestick is best for bed adhesion, I've tried PVA, hair spray, kapton tape, painters tape.
    Partially I think because its thicker so gives a little forgiveness to your layer height being a little off.

    The rule for keeping your layer heights at intervals of the non microstepped Z axis stepper height makes sense, so I do that too.

    Forget about trying to pry a print off your print bed when its hot - Just wait till its cold and it literally just pops off the bed.
    I've printed some fairly big things (think 450x200 kinda footprint) and they all just pop off with zero effort if you wait until the bed is cold. Try pry something that big off the bed when its hot though and its impossible.

    Also just get the printer running right with the same size nozzle, same layer height, same material. Get it running good then leave the settings the hell alone! And you'll have close-ish to a set and forget printer.

    I mainly use Esun PLA+, a little PETG, and some HIPS because its nice for making moulds with. As it sands a lot easier than PLA and starts out with a nicer surface finish.

    If as of tomorrow PLA was the only thing that existed, I'd not lose any sleep over missing those other things.
    Last edited by Roman; 8th June 2019 at 11:02 pm.

  4. Post
    #29
    What gluestick do you use? Any particular brand? I've pretty much stopped using the fdm we have because its a pita with stuff vacating the bed/warping but it would be handy to get going again to save some clams.

  5. Post
    #30
    Gluestick is great for a heated bed, dries almost immediately with a coarse finish. Awesome for my IIIP.

    Which makes it terrible for my FlashForge Finder that has no heated bed and came with its own glue. Several days later, though, the glue has set nicely. Any brand, but the one I'm using at the moment is purple and it dries clear.

    I feel we're literally living in the future, most of my prints are just small stuff around the house.

    Everyone complained about my dining table being too low, so I measured its feet, quickly knocked up an extension in MS 3D builder and printed four off to success. Raises it another 2cm which would be prohibitively expensive (shop to make something) or ugly (books) if done any other way.

    I love that I can just be like, "This annoys me but would be impossible to otherwise resolve" *fixes in a couple days*

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  6. Post
    #31
    suntoucher wrote:
    Gluestick is great for a heated bed, dries almost immediately with a coarse finish. Awesome for my IIIP.

    Which makes it terrible for my FlashForge Finder that has no heated bed and came with its own glue. Several days later, though, the glue has set nicely. Any brand, but the one I'm using at the moment is purple and it dries clear.

    I feel we're literally living in the future, most of my prints are just small stuff around the house.

    Everyone complained about my dining table being too low, so I measured its feet, quickly knocked up an extension in MS 3D builder and printed four off to success. Raises it another 2cm which would be prohibitively expensive (shop to make something) or ugly (books) if done any other way.

    I love that I can just be like, "This annoys me but would be impossible to otherwise resolve" *fixes in a couple days*

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    Very nice!

    I am about to design something to go in one of my work car cup holders which will hold my cell charger end in place and be a cradle for my phone for when using the google maps app navigate around.

  7. Post
    #32
    Is anyone on here will to do some 3d printing for my gaming rig.

    I have an apex x board that I need some cover plates made.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Post
    #33
    VOID_NZ wrote:
    Is anyone on here will to do some 3d printing for my gaming rig.

    I have an apex x board that I need some cover plates made.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Can you upload some pics of what you need?

  9. Post
    #34
    I'm having my mind blown by the incompetence of NZ Post.

    I get my stuff delivered to work. And recently with international orders, NZ Post has been delivering them to a different town that has no similarities to my work address whatsoever. And now NZ Post have lost my magnetic buildtak bed. Because it was sent via China Post, they refuse to find out where it went because "we don't track international postal deliveries".

  10. Post
    #35
    I've just got into 3D printing. Been using a flash forge to print old Audi car parts that are broken or missing that I cant be arsed trying to find or pay too much for. Been modeling in Fusion 360 and making weak test pieces to check fitment, adjusting and printing final pieces.

    Feels so good when your model prints out and things fit nicely.

    Learning Fusion 360 has been an experience haha.