Results 26 to 50 of 54

  1. Post
    #26
    I have used gluestick extensively and works, just is messy.

    May try the hairspray once next.

  2. Post
    #27
    First time using brass heat inserts. Will need to change my design next time so that the hole is slightly wider at the top. This is for mounting these new spotlights using factory mounts for an evo 6

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  3. Post
    #28
    Roman's guide to minimizing 3d printing pain:

    The way people suggest levelling the bed right out by the edges, even though its "standard" makes no sense.
    Level the bed by having the nozzle directly over top of the adjustment knob as thats the pivot point.
    Otherwise the height that you're adjusting is a function of the closest adjustment wheel and the one diagonally opposite.
    So you have to go around in circles 100 bloody times to get it even as you end up over and under correcting.
    Think of it like a seesaw that's pivoting over the levelling knob.

    Also you will save yourself 6 billion hours with a 240v heated bed if you've got a big bed area.

    If using a compatible printer install Marlin Firmware and turn on Linear Advance. Its a more scientific method of dealing with "coasting" and it works at more than just one speed, unlike coasting which you'll drive yourself bloody mad trying to fine tune.

    Also turn on baby steps so you can fine tune the nozzle height when it starts printing and save yourself 5 billion frustrations.

    For a 0.4mm nozzle I find a 0.42mm line width is best for geometrical accuracy and surface finish.
    Usually the default is wider than that.

    Also, direct drive extruder is rediculously excellent.

    People say rafts suck, but trying to perfectly level a 500x500 bed to within fraction of a mm is rediculous.
    I find I waste less material from using a raft than not, because it massively minimizes warping issues and first layer issues.
    Issues with the first layer not quite sticking down properly in one corner have often come back to haunt me half way through a print when it warps up. Even the tiniest sliver of first layer doubt - Start again, it never works out better than you think haha.

    I've found gluestick is best for bed adhesion, I've tried PVA, hair spray, kapton tape, painters tape.
    Partially I think because its thicker so gives a little forgiveness to your layer height being a little off.

    The rule for keeping your layer heights at intervals of the non microstepped Z axis stepper height makes sense, so I do that too.

    Forget about trying to pry a print off your print bed when its hot - Just wait till its cold and it literally just pops off the bed.
    I've printed some fairly big things (think 450x200 kinda footprint) and they all just pop off with zero effort if you wait until the bed is cold. Try pry something that big off the bed when its hot though and its impossible.

    Also just get the printer running right with the same size nozzle, same layer height, same material. Get it running good then leave the settings the hell alone! And you'll have close-ish to a set and forget printer.

    I mainly use Esun PLA+, a little PETG, and some HIPS because its nice for making moulds with. As it sands a lot easier than PLA and starts out with a nicer surface finish.

    If as of tomorrow PLA was the only thing that existed, I'd not lose any sleep over missing those other things.
    Last edited by Roman; 8th June 2019 at 10:02 pm.

  4. Post
    #29
    What gluestick do you use? Any particular brand? I've pretty much stopped using the fdm we have because its a pita with stuff vacating the bed/warping but it would be handy to get going again to save some clams.

  5. Post
    #30
    Gluestick is great for a heated bed, dries almost immediately with a coarse finish. Awesome for my IIIP.

    Which makes it terrible for my FlashForge Finder that has no heated bed and came with its own glue. Several days later, though, the glue has set nicely. Any brand, but the one I'm using at the moment is purple and it dries clear.

    I feel we're literally living in the future, most of my prints are just small stuff around the house.

    Everyone complained about my dining table being too low, so I measured its feet, quickly knocked up an extension in MS 3D builder and printed four off to success. Raises it another 2cm which would be prohibitively expensive (shop to make something) or ugly (books) if done any other way.

    I love that I can just be like, "This annoys me but would be impossible to otherwise resolve" *fixes in a couple days*

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  6. Post
    #31
    suntoucher wrote:
    Gluestick is great for a heated bed, dries almost immediately with a coarse finish. Awesome for my IIIP.

    Which makes it terrible for my FlashForge Finder that has no heated bed and came with its own glue. Several days later, though, the glue has set nicely. Any brand, but the one I'm using at the moment is purple and it dries clear.

    I feel we're literally living in the future, most of my prints are just small stuff around the house.

    Everyone complained about my dining table being too low, so I measured its feet, quickly knocked up an extension in MS 3D builder and printed four off to success. Raises it another 2cm which would be prohibitively expensive (shop to make something) or ugly (books) if done any other way.

    I love that I can just be like, "This annoys me but would be impossible to otherwise resolve" *fixes in a couple days*

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    Very nice!

    I am about to design something to go in one of my work car cup holders which will hold my cell charger end in place and be a cradle for my phone for when using the google maps app navigate around.

  7. Post
    #32
    Is anyone on here will to do some 3d printing for my gaming rig.

    I have an apex x board that I need some cover plates made.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Post
    #33
    VOID_NZ wrote:
    Is anyone on here will to do some 3d printing for my gaming rig.

    I have an apex x board that I need some cover plates made.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Can you upload some pics of what you need?

  9. Post
    #34
    I'm having my mind blown by the incompetence of NZ Post.

    I get my stuff delivered to work. And recently with international orders, NZ Post has been delivering them to a different town that has no similarities to my work address whatsoever. And now NZ Post have lost my magnetic buildtak bed. Because it was sent via China Post, they refuse to find out where it went because "we don't track international postal deliveries".

  10. Post
    #35
    I've just got into 3D printing. Been using a flash forge to print old Audi car parts that are broken or missing that I cant be arsed trying to find or pay too much for. Been modeling in Fusion 360 and making weak test pieces to check fitment, adjusting and printing final pieces.

    Feels so good when your model prints out and things fit nicely.

    Learning Fusion 360 has been an experience haha.

  11. Post
    #36
    Decided to get rid of the magnetic bed and put my tempered glass bed back on. This time with some glue-stick. I'm sold. Perfect adhesion. What gets the glue-stick off the bed? ISA works but you have to let it sit and attack it a few times. Would acetone be better?

    Gonna pick up a heat gun tomorrow so I can kill stringing. I've found Slic3r is the worst for stringing.

  12. Post
    #37
    Just take the glass off and wash with soapy water. Comes right off easy as.

    I find that once gluestick starts to build up a wavey sort of surface, each time you lay down more it just builds up the bumps.

    So usually wash it all off at that point, then heat the bed up. and slowly melt the stick across back and forth and then once again perpendicular.

    Usually sweet for ages that way.

    Stringing is largely avoidable, with PLA at least, all down to settings.

  13. Post
    #38
    If you have a creality this mod for cura is amazing:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/e...al/topic:37266

  14. Post
    #39
    Will give that a watch. Thanks Slicksta.

    No matter what I do I can't avoid warping in one corner on the first few layers. Causes the print to peel off the bed even with glue-stick. I've tried upping the bed temp, and lowering it. I've tried upping the nozzle temp and lowering it (lowering it of course gave me terrible layer adhesion).

    My general settings are:

    Heat bed - 60.C (all layers)
    Nozzle temp - 200.C (all layers)
    Layer height - 0.16mm
    Initial layer height - 0.3mm
    printing speed - 30mm/s
    retraction speed - 45mm/s
    speed when not printing - 20mm/s

    I use Cura 4.0. The only things left that might be my issue is crappy PLA or my printer sitting on a wobbly desk but I don't get any other signs of bad prints with shifting layers etc.

    I can clearly see the first few layers where the warping is happening is due to those first few layers contracting. The warping happens in the same top/right corner so perhaps my leveling is also playing a part.

    Also still getting bad stringing. I have retraction turned on and have it set to 5mm and still doesn't seem to help much.

  15. Post
    #40
    Rii have a look at "Linear Advance" it's a life changer.
    Stringing and blobs etc become virtually non existent.

    How big is the heater under your bed? I used to have heaps of problems with warping parts, until I got a heater that goes the full size of the print bed. Otherwise it was like, 60deg in the center and 20-30 at the edges.

    Using a raft, although some people say it sucks makes it sooooo much more forgiving for bed levelling issues.
    You can use as much glue as you need to get the thing to stick down, and none of it ends up on your part.

    In relevant news, this is holding up the gearbox of my car (just PLA prototype to check measurements etc)

    Printed completely solid with no infill, its plenty strong. (But first bit of exhaust heat would melt it, haha)


  16. Post
    #41
    Hah nice, going to print again in ABS or something?

    I am just finished printing a Warhound Titan for 30k. Needs a bit of a file/sand in places but overall looking the part. Got a base for it printing now.

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  17. Post
    #42
    Suggest me a 3D printer to get started with. Budget sub $500.

  18. Post
    #43
    I would suggest an Ender 3 Pro or 5. 3 is a bit older but is tried and tested, heaps of mods out and print profiles available. Got a mate with 2 of them. The 5 is newer and has some great features, may end up being the better choice in the long run as people learn it more and tweak things etc..

    https://all3dp.com/1/creality-ender-...rinter-review/

    https://all3dp.com/1/creality-ender-...printer-specs/

    If you can catch a sale with free shipping then you should save a ton cause they can be heavy. Somewhere like Aliexpress (as long as its Creality branded), Gearbest or the like are all options. I got my Anet A8 (was the cheap go to before the Ender 3) from Gearbest.

  19. Post
    #44
    Cheers I'll take a look. I remember looking at those Anet ones a while ago, but weren't there reports of them catching fire?

  20. Post
    #45
    Yup, but mine has done hundreds of hours of printing and no issue. A mates ones PSU did go pop though.

  21. Post
    #46
    Sweet I went with an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed.

    Also where do you guys source your pla from and if in NZ, where's the best place?

  22. Post
    #47
    Just trademe myself. Was using no name stuff but got a roll of eSun from a mate and its heaps better. I would give eSun and Wanhao a looksee, both good.

  23. Post
    #48
    sweet as!

  24. Post
    #49
    First print!

  25. Post
    #50
    Very nice!

    Man I really need to upgrade my Anet at some point.